Axcelr8 Academy: Understanding Color Chemistry and Formulation

Description:  No more guessing after this class.  A complete knowledge class on the chemistry of hair, color, bleach, toners, and more.  Learning the foundations of chemistry will help with understanding how to formulate and then how to recommend what our clients need.  Swatching is huge when learning color and the differences of each type of coloring tools that we use. First we get to see how theory works and also the difference of each type of color. Make your blondes be better with understanding toning and bleaching the hair.  Let's keep the integrity of our clients' hair.  Knowledge is power.

Segments:

1. Chemistry

   1. Structure of hair strand and how PH works 

      Chemistry of hair color 

      Alkalizers 

      H2O2 

      Dye Molecule

      All other ingredients (fluff and stuff) 

      Difference between Temporary, semi, demi and permanent  color is in the alkalizer 

   Swatching:  see the difference between each line 

   Formulation: 

   1. Color Theory 

      1. Color Wheel 

         How to create neutral 

         Color math to cancel tones 

      Understand levels of lift o Levels discovery 

      1. using black and white photos

      Formulation with Permanent color 

      1. What is the natural level

         What is the target level  

         What is the underlying pigment / dominant pigment 

         What is the target tone 

         What is the texture of hair 

         What is the porosity of the hair

         What is the % of gray 

         Use color math to find out the formulations 

      Going Darker 

      1. 1-3 levels may not need re-pigmentation / filling 

         Filling / re-pigmenting hair when going 3 or more level darker 

         Re-pigment with warmth does not always need to be red. 

      Going Lighter up to (4 levels) 

      1. Permanent color will lift up to 4 levels. 

         HighLift color can lift 4-5 levels of lift  

         Texture of hair changes the amount of lift. 

   Swatching: Make some formulations and swatch to see the results

   Bleaches

   1. Differences between the lighteners 

      Developer gives speeds and energy 

      Low and slow keeps the integrity of hair 

      Lighteners may take longer than 45 min to lift. 

   Toning:

   1. Understand what level you have lifted to 

      Toners (UT) can used on level 9-10 

      Difference between toning and deposit only

   Swatching: Make some formulations and swatch to see the results

Taught by: Stephen Adams

Bio:  Stephen Adams is a positive and innovative problem solver, who has participated in many aspects within the beauty industry for the last 30 plus years. Throughout the years he has been inspired deeply by the cultures of his surroundings. Art, humor, and clothing styles kindle his imagination and helps him to see the world in a different aspect of texture, density, color and movement. Stephen feels that through his working with hair, a 3 dimensional fluid object that he sculpts and intensifies with color, he is able to create that perfect balance of both Art and Science.  His commitment to education, community, and his industry is what pushes him to be the best of his abilities. His growing national reputation stems from many accolades from Keratin Complex and also his work as a platform artist for companies such as Aveda, John Paul Mitchell Systems, Chromastics and ARROJO.  “Take Risks” has been Stephen’s motto for most of his life and he truly believes that to be successful at whatever we do, we all must have some “Moxie” and do what no one else has done.  Push yourself to be your best.